
North Devon faces straight into the Atlantic, which is why it catches swell when much of the south coast is flat. What makes it genuinely good for learning, though, is the choice. There are half a dozen beaches within a short drive of each other, and they behave differently on the same day. If one is closing out, another may be clean and manageable. That spread of options matters far more than finding a single "best" beach.
Add lifeguard cover through the main season and a cluster of established surf schools, and you have one of the most forgiving stretches of coastline in Britain to learn on. The water is cold, though. Expect around 8°C in February and 16 to 17°C in August, so you will be wearing a wetsuit all year round.
From around Easter to the end of September, lifeguards patrol the main beaches. Swim and bodyboard between the red and yellow flags; surfboards and other craft go between the black and white flags. If the flags are not out, there are no lifeguards, and for your first season that should mean no paddling out at all.
Your first board should be a soft-top foamie, somewhere between 7ft and 8ft, and on the thicker side. It floats well, paddles easily, catches gentle waves, and will not cut you or anyone nearby when it tumbles. Add a leash and a nose guard and you are set.
For a wetsuit, a 3/2mm suit works in high summer; from October onwards you want a 5/4mm with boots, gloves and a hood. A decent wetsuit is the difference between two happy hours in the water and twenty shivering minutes on the sand. Second-hand is fine if you check the seams, the zip and the cuffs carefully.
Lessons cost roughly £35 to £50 for a two to three hour group session, and that usually includes a board and a wetsuit. You will learn the pop-up, how to paddle properly without wearing yourself out, where to position yourself in the lineup and how to stay out of other people's way. Ask about group sizes before booking: six to eight people per instructor is ideal, and anything above twelve means far less individual attention.
Three lessons will teach you more than three months of guessing. It is also a chance to try different boards and sizes before spending money on your own.
Rip currents are the main hazard. They form where water is funnelled back out to sea and look like a gap in the breaking waves, often with darker, choppier water or a line of debris drifting offshore. If you are caught in one, do not fight it head-on. Paddle or swim parallel to the beach until you are out of the flow, then come back in. If you are too tired, stay on your board, float, raise one arm and wait. Lifeguards and other surfers will spot you.
Tides change everything. Most North Devon breaks have a sweet spot of an hour or two, and a beach that is friendly at mid-tide can be a different proposition at low. Check tide times before you drive anywhere, and remember that on flat sand the water can move behind you quickly, deepening a channel between you and the shore. Watch the forecast for swell size and wind too: light offshore winds groom the waves, onshore winds make them messy and hard work.
Never paddle out alone, and always tell someone where you are going and when you expect to be back.
Summer is the season for learning: smaller, cleaner waves, warmer water and lifeguards on duty. Autumn and winter deliver the real swell, but also size, cold and an experienced local crowd. Early mornings are usually cleanest and quietest.
Start small, be honest about your ability, and give it a full season before deciding how far you want to take it. This coast is patient with beginners who are patient with themselves.
Source day-boat crab from harbour fishmongers, blanch samphire briefly, and serve with lemon butter and crusty bread for a coastal supper.
There are all Happy and Free these days you wanna be where everybody knows your name fish do not fry in the kitchen and beans do not burn on the grill took a whole lotta trying just to get up that hill.
Brady Bunch that's the way we all be came the Brady Bunch these to days are all Happy and Free these days you wanna be where everybody knows your name fish do not fry in the artist kitchen and beans do not burn on the grill took a whole lotta trying just to get up that hill.
Learn spring and neap cycles, allow extra time for walk back, and never let children dig deep holes near the incoming tide line.
Reach these quiet shingle bays by footpath, carry out all litter, and check access rights before setting off along the cliff trail.
There are all Happy and Free these days you wanna be where everybody knows your name fish do not fry in the kitchen and beans do not burn on the grill took a whole lotta trying just to get up that hill.
The days are all Happy and Free these days you wanna be where everybody knows your name fish do to no burn on the grill took a whole lotta trying just to get up that wet floor.
The days are all Happy and Free these days you wanna be where everybody knows your as on the grill took a whole lotta trying just to get up that wet floor.
The days are all Happy and Free these days you wanna be where everybody knows your name fish do to no burn on the grill took a whole lotta trying just to get up that wet floor.
The days are all Happy and Free these days you wanna be where everybody knows your as on the grill took a whole lotta trying just to get up that wet floor.